The Adventures of Tom Wickwire

2023 Ukraine Trip Journal

Spring 2023

When contemplating a trip to a foreign country it is prudent to learn something about it before just heading off; do I need a Visa, name of their of currency, exchange rate, their view of Americans, diseases you could get vaccinated for, local customs, food, lodging. Some call this doing your due diligence.

An excellent source is the State Department’s website. So, I opened it, clicked on Ukraine and got: Do not go to Ukraine.

So, I drug up my gear and headed out, first to meet a friend, Alex Gorelik, near San Francisco planning a trip there to expand the world view of his 21-year-old daughter, Rachel, headed off to med school in the Fall.

April 28. Met Alex in San Francisco, flew together San Fran to Copenhagen to Warsaw, Poland.

Took taxi in Warsaw driven by woman, appeared to be late 30s, early 40s, is Ukrainian. Said her son is in Ukrainian Army, stationed in Bakhmut, center of heavy fighting for weeks. Always a risk this just a play for sympathy but I’ll take it. This my first opportunity for direct aid so I tip her $20.00 telling her, in my broken Russian, would like him to use it to buy ammunition, if not needed for that, food.

April 29. Met Rachel in Warsaw, flew to Katowice, Poland, where ambulance I bought earlier is located. Learned from Will Waggoner, lawyer from New Mexico who located and arranged for purchase of ambulance, that it will not be ready until Tuesday as last weekend in April is big holiday in Poland. So, Alex and I took train to Krakow to be tourists for the weekend. Visited Oscar Schindler’s factory.

Learned today shelling, missiles or mortars, has increased in Kyiv to 40 or so per day, but most get intercepted, destroyed by Ukrainian missiles but falling parts, shrapnel hit and killed 2 people. Rachel having heard this, decides to stay in Poland, where she has worked with Samaritan’s purse, Franklin Graham’s organization, helping Ukrainian refuges, her second trip to Warsaw doing this.

April 30. News, various sources in Europe, say Ukraine has drone-bombed large fuel depo in Crimea, destroying fuel intended for Russian Black Sea fleet. Lines of cars seen by drone cameras leaving Crimea, as Russian civilians, surprised by this new risk, decide no assurance Crimea will remain safe in Russian hands.

Ukraine also sending drones with 10 kg explosives into Russian cities. How many Russian citizens see this, losing confidence in Putin’s war?

Ukraine told by U.S. not to send bombs into Russian territory. Ukraine interprets this as, just don’t send U.S. made bombs. So, Ukraine has made its own for that purpose.

Head of Wagner group, Yevkenyi Prigozhin, brutal Russian mercenaries, has publicly criticized Russian defense minister, who retaliated by reducing weapons, ammunition supplies to Wagner group. This first crack in Russian military, loyalty to Putin, which has gone public.

Ukraine has top general, Valeri Zeluzhny, very clever strategist, even Russian officers respect him. His counterpart is the Russian Defense Minister, Shoigu, who got his job as political favor from Putin, has no military training or experience, just a slew of unearned medals on his chest. Ukrainians call him “The Cardboard General.” Will see how far Russian officers willing to go taking orders from him.

May 1. No change in notice on ambulance being ready by Tuesday. Alex goes to Kyiv by train; I go to Katowice by train. Alex’s train leaves one hour before mine so I help him with his big luggage then find his train and platform number, then look for my train and platform number to Katowice, about 100 km.

Moving up escalator with my 2 large bags, wider than escalator so staggered one forward, other behind me, I lose my balance, lean on the rear luggage handle to stabilize, and it does just what it is designed to do – collapses. I do half roll backwards, hit steel points of stair, cutting forearm and hand. Cuts not deep but lots of blood, so spend next 45 minutes finding drug store, buying bandages so I can clean myself up enough to get on train without scaring passengers.

Get to my platform, and as I sit, wrapping arm in bandages awaiting train, I think: once on the train I will finally be able to sit and relax. But this not to be. Train is standing room only and me with 2 large bags have to squeeze into space just inside the door.

Neither foot gets to move even an inch for duration of trip, over an hour. And this is the local, stops every 8-10 minutes where 3-4 people get off, same number get on.

This turning into a tough day and not even in Ukraine yet. Or, while the world fixates on the war in Ukraine, one man fights a lonely battle with an escalator in Poland.

As I leave train station I see a hotel 200 meters away, a welcome sight. No energy left for price shopping so I drag my luggage there, check in, get to my room, clean up bloody arm and bandage it.

It is after 10 P.M. Restaurant is closed so dinner is an MRE (Meal Ready to Eat) brought to give to less fortunate Ukrainian soldiers or civilians, but tonight it’s my dinner.

An hour later, cleaned up and bandaged, much better.

May 2. Tuesday. Getting a vehicle into Ukraine

Will Waggoner told me the ambulance will be waiting for me at “the Subaru dealer” in Katowice, so next morning I get a taxi, ask to be taken to the Subaru Dealer. On arrival I tell manager I am here for the ambulance. What Ambulance? No ambulance here for you. Seems there are two Subaru dealers in Katowice and I am at the wrong one.

Call another taxi and an hour later I arrive at the right one. But the Devil has noticed that I am out to do some good and plays his hand: Same dealer who has our used ambulance is also the Ferrari dealer and there is a new, 2-seat, black convertible in his show room, not a scratch or speck of dust on it. As I walk past it, the smell the new leather draws me to lean over and peek at the tachometer and speedometer, see how many gears. For just a moment l consider changing plans, giving up on the ambulance to Ukraine project, instead touring Europe in a new Ferrari. I would be very cool, (proud) others envious. Ah, but pride and envy are two of the Devil’s most effective tools.

But I am able to resist and stick with the ambulance project. Maybe when younger, but at my age, sorry Devil. You’ll have to try your other tool, fear, as I don’t know what awaits me once into Ukraine. Robert Service, one of my favorites, said: Maybe selfishness and fear are the worst sins.

Used but in good shape.

The dealer and I sign transfer documents, finalizing ambulance purchase, go to Polish version of Department of Motor Vehicles to register the transfer to me.

I head to Polish-Ukraine border, an 8-hour drive, with poor quality map of Poland in English. Need to stop a few times to ask for directions through cities and discover new problem: how to pronounce Polish place names.

Seems Poles who formed their language had a distaste, aversion to vowels, such that many words have a string of consonants before throwing in a vowel, often just the half-vowel “y”, as if consonants were free but they had to pay for vowels. Or perhaps they worried that they had best throw in a vowel here and there so some foreigners confronting some 3 or 4 syllable word might choke on it, so reluctantly, they threw in a vowel.

I arrive at the Polish-Ukraine border at 10 P.M., get rejected by Polish Border guards as my documents show expired insurance and the license plate number does not appear on any of them. I drive to small hotel,” Two Lions” on western edge of Przemsyl, arriving at 12:30 A.M. All quiet so get sleeping bag, pad out, sleep in ambulance.

Prior owner of Two Lions liked to carve wood.

May 3. Getting a Vehicle into Ukraine, Second Attempt.

Hotel opens AT 8, I check in, get good breakfast, shower and a few hours’ sleep, review documents and find I just might have enough to satisfy Polish guards, hoping for shift change of border guards, so head back to border for second try. This time documents good, cleared to exit Poland in less than an hour, but stopped by Ukrainian Border Guards just inside Ukraine, as can’t meet requirement to prove ambulance is to be given to a Ukrainian registered Humanitarian Aid NGO. Without this, must pay large import tax.

Second problem, it has only temporary registration.

Calls to John O’Brien, Samaritan’s Purse rep I met in Fairbanks, explain problem, he refers me to HEAL Corp, which is a registered Ukrainian NGO. HEAL Corp drafts letter on company stationery saying if I give it to them, they accept it and promise to get it permanently registered soon as it arrives in Kyiv. I am required to write letter in the customs guard’s presence saying I give it to HEAL Corp. Now all is good. I give it to HEAL Corp., which now owns it and I am fee to enter Ukraine. Great relief to get cleared into Ukraine. It is a about 11:00 PM.

All this took 22 hours, living in ambulance in border parking lot, eating my emergency gear food or at the only café there.

Café just inside Ukrainian border

View from ambulance for 22 hours, just inside Ukrainian border

First 6-8 miles or so has an unbroken line of large trucks parked on side of road pointing west, to Poland, drivers sleeping in their cabs, awaiting their turn to leave. Don’t know what is in them but obvious there is much large truck traffic into and out of Ukraine.

20 miles into Ukraine I get fuel, taking a chance using my credit card, but have no choice as low on fuel, have no Ukrainian money and don’t want to risk trying to buy fuel peeling off a $100 bill form a wad in the middle of the night with no one else nearby.

Drive another 2 hours through Lvov, find hotel after midnight, by chance, in rural area east of Lvov, ring buzzer and, to my surprise, woman comes to door, lets me in, I check-in to room and am asleep in ten minutes in much appreciated bed after 2 nights in sleeping bag in ambulance.

Divine Appointment

At breakfast, included in room fee at $24.60, only other person in café is a man about 40, about 20 feet across the room. When done and paid up, we both finish and walk outside at same time. I start conversation with him and tell him I’m American volunteer, bringing ambulance to help war effort, headed to Kherson. He likes that. I ask for help, showing him the poor quality 8 ½ x 11 map of Ukraine (only map of Ukraine available before I left) and can’t even read highway numbers. He gives me his 2 x 3 ft fold-out map of country, much detail, readable town names and highway numbers, which turns out to be essential, as my iPhone with GPS and spare battery runs out after 3-4 hours and the phone charging port in ambulance does not work. This map allows me to navigate to Odessa, my destination that night, some 10 hours’ drive. Lunch is one kg of strawberries bought at roadside stand, perfect.

I enjoy drive through the Ukrainian countryside. Nearly all is farm land, about half planted in some crop 2-3 ft tall with yellow flower tops, maybe sunflowers. 95% of the land is cultivated and planted.

This one in Kyiv. Words in Blue say “All will be Ukraine”

Remaining 5% along my route is patches of woods. Largest wild animals are boar, no deer, elk or other ungulates, no bears. Don’t know about snakes. (Many said to be in Moscow.)

What I have not seen is Carpathian Mountains, SW part of country. Suspect more woods, wildlife there.

Small towns are noteworthy for cows, goats crossing the highway at will, even one lady walking her goose 5 feet from a main road, no leash. She and goose seem secure, enjoying the day as trucks whiz by. No fences as animals have the right-of–way.

Obvious Ukraine is a farm country and proud of it.

Alex called having arrived in Kyiv by train. Ukrainian news reports drone-bombs hit, destroyed 4 more Russian fuel dumps in Crimea, destroying most remaining fuel for Russian Southern fleet and Russian army there, and a small drone-bomb hit Moscow, close to Kremlin. Just big enough to humiliate Putin and bring war home to Russian citizenry?

Second Divine Appointment

For 5 hours I have been on long highway running south from Kyiv south to Odessa, odd as for about 200 miles I see bridges where other highways intersect, but no exits or entry ramps, lots of gas stations, the occasional one having been blown up by rocket or missile. By 10 P.M. It is dark, I am past 8 PM curfew so need to stop. I finally see chance to exit divided highway, arrive at a city, get on road heading east, into a city, not sure which. I stop at gas station- cafe where 3 men are also customers. I unfold my map, tell them I am an American headed to Kherson with this ambulance, parked outside, and ask “where am I?” in my basic Russian. They tell me I’m in Odessa, and they don’t mean Texas.

One man says, wait just a minute; he will get his friend from his car, who is fluent in English. He comes in, we exchange introductions, and he invites me to spend the night at his church, a ten-minute drive; just follow him. When we arrive, he introduces me to his father-in-law, the pastor, two older women who are fascinated to meet an American, especially one from Alaska, bring in an ambulance so they quiz me and feed me for a half an hour. The man who led me there, Max, shows me to my room, shower and bathroom and tells me not to try to pay them.

I want to get to know these people better. I suspect they are Christians of non- denominational, evangelical variety, as no signs of big onion-shaped, gold- plated dome or icons which mark eastern orthodox churches – and they built their church themselves; no large organization supporting them.

May 6, Saturday. I drive rest of way to Kherson, hand ambulance over to Ben, the American and Aleksie, who has some leadership position in a Ukrainian NGO,

Ambulance delivered in Kherson

He tells me his assistant will be driving to Kyiv shortly and I can go with him, which I accept, so I can meet the HEAL Corp officers/directors, Larry and Danyyl, who made it possible to satisfy Customs, get the ambulance into the Country.

Before I leave for Kyiv, I tell Ben it needs an oil and filter change, as no idea when last done but oil is black, black as Putin’s heart. Well, maybe not that black, but you get the idea.

Drive to Kyiv is an 8-hour trip on mostly good roads, no large holes, as if hit by artillery, through many small farming towns where only sign of war is about every 60-80 miles there’s a road block with 3-5 army guards, each in camo long sleeves, despite warm weather, helmet, pistol on belt, automatic rifle with curved 10-inch magazine in sling over shoulder, flak vest with 3 pockets each with magazine with estimated 30 rounds each. So, each man, or women, could fire estimated 150 rounds in maybe 2-3 minutes with re- loading. Helps me realize the pastoral scenes of small farming towns are not typical.

These are not people to be trifled with.

At some of these stops they look and waive us through. At others they signal us to pull over, ask for passports, photograph them, ask what our business is. Usually our answer: “American humanitarian volunteers” suffices. Sometimes they do a thorough search of the car, looking for stowaways – military-age men trying to evade their military service.

On arrival in Kyiv, and checked in to hotel, I meet with HEAL Corp leaders and discuss problems with ambulance being in Kherson: Does government expect you, HEAL Corp, to possess ambulance, as I promised at border? Can HEAL Corp lease it to people in Kherson so they can possess and use it, at least temporarily?

They will work up a use-sharing agreement for the ambulance. Without this, it is at risk of being seized by either civilian, Ministry of Health, or Army, who would very much like to have it. I tell them I want the ambulance to be used where it is needed most, doing traditional ambulance work, getting wounded military or civilians from front to hospitals.

I ask John to send all the title, ownership, registration, insurance documents to my iPhone, then from me to HEAL Corp. iPhones, with ability to photograph and send documents, is really useful.

May 7, Sunday. Have dinner in restaurant-bar where two locals, late 20s, Dmitri and Bogdan work. One speaks pretty good English. He summarizes what President Zelensky has been saying in his daily 6 P.M. TV talks on the progress of the war. These two men work 7 days a week and tell me this is common for civilians since the war started. No premium pay for overtime.

Restaurant/ bar in downtown Kyiv, and Bogdan, who speaks good English

Met American journalist, Kollen, from D.C., here to report on war, fluent in Russian. We share impressions so far. One, on why we are here, is: If this war turns out to be the test for whether democracy or autocracy will spread to other countries for remainder of this century, and democracy wins, when people ask me decades later: What were you doing during the great Ukrainian war for democracy? I want to be able to say: Too old to fight but I went and did what I could.

May 8, Monday. Tourist in Kyiv.

Walked from hotel past Maidon Square, where 2014 mildly violent revolution took place, overthrowing then president, Yanukovych, a corrupt Putin supporter, starting Ukraine on path toward democracy and, in 2019, election of President Zelensky.

One block on street from Maidon Square to Zelensky’s office is a memorial to the 148 people who were killed in that revolution before it succeeded.

Soldiers in Maidon Square, Kyiv

The “Industrial alpinist.” What did he do? Install ski lifts?

President Zelensky’s office complex is 2 blocks uphill from Maidon Square. At end of road is a row of tank stoppers, I-beams, forming 3-member crosses 4 ft tall, called “dragon’s teeth.” Six soldiers guarding entrance.

Many Eastern Orthodox churches, Ukrainian version, now separated from Russian version, which supports Putin and his war.

That night I hear a few pops of incoming missiles, not close, but not concerned as walls of my hotel are concrete over a foot thick and bed is not near the window.

May 9, Tuesday.

TV news showed scaled-down celebration in Moscow, Putin’s annual parade, on this day in 1945 when WW II ended for Russia. Portrays Russia as winning the War all by itself; no mention of help from Great Britain, Poland, U. S. (of course not) Canada, Australia, even a bit from France. Western news sees Putin in weak position holding his

“Victory Parade” while no victory to celebrate.  Drone bomb hit Moscow, close to Kremlin 3-4 days ago.

Sign in Kyiv Restaurant a week later, (arm healing nicely), and theme of trip

May 10.

John, American volunteer, Ben’s assistant, drove us from Kyiv to Mykolaiv, got American, Craig, who has lived in Ukraine several years, took him to Kyrryi Rih, (Keery Ree) Pres Zelensky’s home town, which occasionally gets a bomb or two so Putin can keep the war personal. See a lot of country, farm fields, small towns where life appears normal, no indication of war, except the occasional military road stop where we have to show I D, state our business in country. When guards see our American Passports and hear our purpose being there is “humanitarian aid” we are free to go. Spent night in Mykolaiv cheap, $30, but nice hotel. Clean, comfortable bed, good shower, low prices to an American.

May 11.

Two-hour drive Mykolaiv to Kherson then use ambulance to help deliver hot meals to 20-25 shut-ins, people too immobile to cone to soup kitchen, where three ladies prepare lunch daily for about 30 people. Lunch is kasha, cabbage salad, bread and soup.

Once in Kherson, John removes the sim-card from my iPhone, installs a Ukrainian one so Russian military, who can monitor cell phones, will not see a new American has arrived and target me. This prevents me from calling or sending texts out of country.

Ben settles me in an apartment apparently abandoned on short notice by Russian sympathizer family, when Ukrainian forces captured city from Russians in November 2022. Clothing, food, 3-4 bottles of wine and vodka, even father’s medals for judo competition, all still there. They left in a hurry. Gas and electricity working, comfortable place.

Each night I hear 3-4 pops of missiles or mortars coming from Russian troops across Dnieper River but they are a kilometer away, not a threat to my location. This river runs SW into Sea of Azov, then into Black Sea and marks the line separating Ukrainian form Russian forces.

(Three weeks after I return home big news is dam 40 miles up from Kherson gets blown, apparently by Russians, flooding Kherson and neighboring villages.)

During daylight hours residents walk streets, shop at outdoor market, go to work, visit friends, walk dogs and cats. School age children play soccer. Only one in 200 wearing flak vest.

 

Local women in Kherson tended garden on public land; no food value, just local pride.

I get from luggage a 4# bag of dog treats, walk city looking for hungry dogs, many roaming free. Surprised to find all look well fed.

One “Malish” is “owned “jointly by all residents of the apartment building I am housed in. 4-5 people take turns feeding him, a remnant of communist times where community ownership was common. Malish doesn’t mind.

Am in apartment by 7:45 as Kherson has curfew; all must be indoors 8 P.M. – 6 A.M. At 8:50 P.M. heard two explosions guessing 1-2 KM away, one minute apart.

May 12, Friday.

Slept well. Heard one pop loud enough to wake me, but picked bedroom near interior wall, away from windows. 8:00 A.M. went for walk, discovered open-air market 1/2 mile away where each of 20 or so people have a 6 x 10 ft table covered with fresh vegetables, breads, meat, cheeses, eggs, chicken feet and a hog head. Another indication that, at least here, there is little evidence the country is at war.

Open-air market, Kherson

I buy eggs, milk, fresh from the cow, honey, fruit-filled pastries, all about 30-40% of American prices, but locals are buying in small quantities, as can’t afford much, buying just for the day.

Took ambulance to Kherson hospital to deliver 20 boxes of medical supplies donated by UN or other foreign charity. Must enter gate, clear military guards, explain we are delivering medical supplies from humanitarian aid organization and get in, but guard, seeing my camera, says no pictures allowed.

While unloading these we hear whistle of an incoming mortar and all run for basement of hospital, 30 feet. Have learned only mortars warn of incoming with their whistle. Missiles and rockets come in fast, explode on arrival, and you are either hit or missed, no warning, chance to duck and run.

All day hear pops from missiles or rockets at about 20–30-minute intervals, but after leaving hospital area, close to river, rest of city is relatively safe. Residents ignore these as have gotten used to them, even dogs and cats, who may have become partly deaf from hearing them.

May 13

Ambulance still needs oil changed. Been there a week and still not done.

Disappointing. We locate a mechanic, call for when available. Drive ambulance 3 km to mechanic’s, stop to clear military checkpoint. On arrival we learn that mechanic’s mother needs to go to hospital as losing consciousness, unknown cause. So, ambulance finally gets used as an ambulance, albeit without a medic on board, but we do what we can with what we have. Two hours later, mechanic’s mother is brought home, stable, then oil change begins.

Easy part is locating drain plug, draining old oil, about 8 liters worth. Removing filter is challenging. Much discussion on which way it rotates. One man after internet search says “left-hand thread.” I was hoping for either clockwise or counter-clockwise. After several tries with various tools to grip it, and an hour later, mechanic finally loosens it to loud cheers from the 6 of us looking on, and off it comes; (it was counterclockwise, normal) Mechanic removes filter insert, replaces “O-ring” re-installs filter housing, pours in 8 liters of oil and job done.

With trip to hospital took 5 hours.

I thought oil change was imperative and was a little miffed at Ben for not doing it in the week he had it, saving it for me. But God saw otherwise; real purpose of ambulance arriving that day and time was to get mechanic’s mother to hospital. Oil change secondary.

I ask mechanic how much? No charge, but all understand this is thanks for taking his ailing mother to hospital, showing up just when needed.

Back to: How to utilize the ambulance as ambulance – to transport injured military or civilians from front lines, war zone, or “Area of Operations” to hospital. Kherson at this time is not it.²

3:00 P.M. Saturday. I meet Alek, the Sailor. This to distinguish him form 2 other Alek’s I have met in Kherson. This Alek was a seaman on a ship sailing out of Denmark to supply oil rigs in the North Sea, came home to Kherson when war started. He looked to be early 30s, is in Army, awaiting call-up. He has a wife and child here and no pay for now, living on his savings, which are nearly exhausted. I make a direct cash donation, which will keep his family going for a month. This one benefit of going there; I get to donate with no intermediate skimming off for administrative costs, overhead.

Alek asks if ambulance can be used to go to nearby village, get portable generators, and deliver to residents on edge of Kherson, near Dnieper riverbank, who have lost power from Russian shelling. Will do this tomorrow.

May 14, Sunday.

In the morning, we go to two 25 x 60 ft storage warehouses full of surplus relief goods of wide variety, get 5 new wood stoves, 2 x 2 x 3 feet, made in Bulgaria, complete with oven for baking bread. Can provide heat as well as for cooking. These are the “portable generators” I thought I heard; something lost in translation.

Ambulance being used to deliver wood stoves to recently displaced residents.

Filling out documents to record who gets new wood stoves, so need can be proven later, system not abused. All of us in flak vests as close to river bank, Russian on other side.

Before we gave new wood stove, behind soldier’s lags, to this man, the small fire in brick fireplace was his only way to cook.

Can barely see river 3-400 yards in distance. That is Dnieper River, separating Ukrainian territory from Russian occupied, where shelling comes from.

What is left of neighboring house hit by missile?

Delivering another stove to local resident.

This was closest I got to in-range of Russian artillery, hence flak vest, helmet.

We used ambulance for this. Not its highest use, but helping where needed, so OK until better use appears. We, ambulance and 2 other cars, 5 people in all, take them to houses, 15-minute drive, about 200 meters from riverbank, so exposed to Russians who might be looking, on other side. So, for this we all suit up in flak vests, helmets. While unloading stoves one in our group spots a drone overhead so we scramble to cars, drive 100 meters to new location so if drone sends our location coordinates to artillery, we will no longer be there. Don’t know how long this might take but not risking waiting to see.

One couple had recently evacuated from Russian occupied side of river, with little but clothes they wore, moved in with friends or relatives, so much appreciated new stoves.

Still hoping to get ambulance to where it can evacuate injured military or civilians 16 + hours a day to hospitals, true ambulance work. For now, we rely on local informal leaders for where ambulance needed most, as there is no centralized dispatch office in Kherson Oblast (county-sized political area).

Locals know there will soon be military offensive, perhaps from Kherson south, across Dnieper River, with goal to cut supply line from Russian-controlled Donetsk and Luhansk to Crimea. If so, need, opportunity will be for humanitarian volunteers to evacuate Ukrainian civilians who have been living in Russian–occupied territory to safer, Ukrainian occupied areas. Since only bridge at Kherson has been blown (100 ft section has been dropped) evacuation will have to be boats only.

Their entire yard is a garden. Bees have got it made.

After trip to deliver stoves, we go to sailor, Alek’s parents’ house where they feed us pastries, honey from own beehives, home-made wine, coffee. Of this group 3 are Americans.

Back to Volunteer Center, close to my apartment and city center.

Separate room in Volunteer Center is dedicated to holding and distributing dog and cat food to pet owners who are in need. Yevgenyi is in charge, has very good supply. Thus, condition of pets in Kherson is much better than towns close to front.

Pictures of bomb damage, most months old, but some recent, from random shelling by Russians on other side of River. All are about the size as would take out a 30 ft circle, or small house, none an entire 3-4 story building. There are many buildings with bomb damage but much less than pictures on news of Mariupol or Bakhmut, where heavy, months long fighting has occurred.

 

Man on roof is repairing bomb damage, not waiting for war to end before getting back to normal.

Many buildings had windows blown out, but minor structural damage.

This is regional Admiralty building, hit as symbolic insult, cracks in walls, structural damage. Big job to repair.

This is/was Kherson’s largest hospital, hit evidently in roof, blowing out many windows, so had to be closed until repairs could be made.

Bomb missed building, left crater on yard, blew out windows

I estimate about 1-2 % of buildings in Kherson have been hit so if war ends, and money was available, Kherson’s war damage could be repaired in 6 months.

Volunteer Center in Kherson. Well stocked by UN.

May 15, Monday.

Word spreading that ambulance is available for any legitimate need, but still not the 16+ hours a day I envisioned for an ambulance in a war zone. Still disappointed that as long as it is in Kherson it will not be utilized that way as this is far from active combat area and we don’t have trained medics to go with it.

I tell Igor, the informal local leader of humanitarian aid, I and Will Waggoner bought the ambulance and it will stay here after Ben leaves. Gave him written statement on this, in case some gov’t agency asks him what right does he have to possess it, who owns it. No mention of HEAL Corp; hope this helps if he gets stopped.

Met with Oleg Viktorovich, who has Ukrainian NGO, “Helping To Leave.” He agrees to pay for all service/maintenance of ambulance for as long as it is in Kherson. He offered this unsolicited. I like him.

May 16.

John and I head for Kyiv, an 8-hour drive with 5 checkpoints, each with the usual 4-5 soldiers, all heavily armed. Get pulled over at 2 of these, Passports photographed, quick search of car, I think for stowaways who might be trying to evade military service.

In Kyiv hotel I hear English, meet American from Virginia, formerly Ketchikan, Alaska, where he fished salmon commercially. Says he first joined Ukrainian army in 2018, saw combat with them, now back for more. Looks the part at 6’ 1” about 180 lbs., late 20s, obviously fit. Suspect he can handle himself.

I did not know an American could fight in military of a foreign country without formal agreement of the two countries.

May 17.

Met with HEAL Corp officials on use of ambulance, steps required to get it into compliance with Ukrainian law (recall I promised Border Customs as condition for entry that I was giving it to HEAL Corp, and will register it in their name.) Need to get some documents to Kherson people allowing them to possess it, as now it is still at risk of seizure; not supposed to be in Kherson.

HEAL Corp has great need for ambulance to train medics; has several ambulances on order, American doctors coming to train locals on first aid so these can go to front lines, bring wounded back to hospitals. I like this, want to get ambulance under their control without ruffling feathers of folks in Kherson.

Working on this.

 

On war display in center Kyiv, Rocket, helmets.

 

Doors to Uzbekistan embassy in Kyiv, impressed with wood carving.

Destroyed Russian tanks on display in large Square, Center of Kyiv.

May 18. Getting out, going home.

Since there is no commercial flying in Ukraine, it is train or bus to Poland. Prefer train but it would arrive 15 minutes after my plane leaves Warsaw for Copenhagen. Bus arrives 3 hours before, so bus it is.

After leisurely breakfast, taxi to bus station, find my bus, board for 15-hour trip

Kyiv to Warsaw. Not bad as busses go. Not full, has toilet, makes stops at a few combined gas stations/cafés, for us to get off, get food. Left at 3 P.M., arrived at Polish border at 11;00 P.M., clear customs, arrive Warsaw 6 A.M. Taxi to airport, meet Alex as from here to San Francisco we travel together.

Hour and a half flight to Copenhagen, 4-hour wait, 11-hour flight to San Francisco, where Alex’s wife, Marta, meets us. Home by afternoon next day.

Epilogue

The most difficult part of going to Ukraine was the leaving of it, not just the long bus and plane rides, but going back to a comfortable, secure life, thinking couldn’t I have done more.

Home, Ukrainian flag proudly flown.

Before I went, thought I would deliver the ambulance, see it put to use, then leave, satisfied with a good deed done. Now, I want to go back in 4 to 6 months to help however I can.

Ukrainian people, military and civilians, are fighting to preserve their country. Common term in West is proxy war, which will win, democracy or autocracy? Some have found courage they did not know they had. Most are sacrificing to different degrees, not complaining or looking for sympathy.

Sebastian Junger wrote a book about his experiences embedded with a squad of U.S Army Airborne for a year in Afghanistan. Book is titled simply “War”. He offers a credible explanation for why young men volunteer for combat assignments with long periods of discomfort, no radio, TV or internet and only rare phone calls home. Because they have formed strong bonds with their small band of brothers and don’t care about anything else. Their close-knit squad is their whole world. After this, most cannot adjust to the comfortable American life where there is nothing worth fighting for.

Ukraine is now full of people who have bonded like this. Putin has accomplished something remarkable. Before invasion one–third or so Ukrainians were Russian leaning. Now whole country is unified, bonded with something worth fighting for, winning this war, hating Putin and things Russian.

END

FOOTNOTES:

1 MRE – Meals Ready to Eat, Army rations

2 Three weeks after my return the need for ambulance in Kherson all but ended; A dam 40 miles up-river from Kherson had large hole blown into it, flooding the city. Now they need a boat more than an ambulance.